I've literally surfed till my arms have nearly dropped off.
Dave Hutchings is the biggest brother I've ever known and he has practically been living in the water these past few weeks. He did however step onto dry land for a brief moment where he found time to ask his beautiful girlfriend to marry him. So a massive congratulations to my best mate!
The swell has been battering the North Devon coast for weeks now and the winds have been favourable to a number of sheltered winter spots. It's a Xmas period that i'll remember for a long time.
It is important to know you limits as http://www.eyeballhq.tv have pointed out, the sea is a very dangerous place when its this rough. So go careful!